Ireland Day 6 - 29th Nov. 2004

Yes, it's that f'ing flat in Urbana

Moycullen to Doolin via The Burren and The Cliffs of Moher
Ireland Weather: Overcast/Cloudy - Mid 40's

We left Moycullen again this grey morning at approximately 9:45am. Backtracking along the N59 to Galway and on to the N6 to Oranmore where we’d pick up the N18 and eventually the N67 in Kilcolgan.

There was a break in the clouds as we came upon Dunguaire Castle just east of Kinvarra, so we got out, walked around, got back in the car and trucked on.

We took the N67 to the far side of Ballyvaghan, where we headed south through The Burren on the R480 road.

The Burren is a very unusual place. Covered in grey limestone, it is full of small crevices (some not so small) where interesting plants grow. Some 70% of Ireland’s wildflowers and other flora can be found here.

^ The Burren ^

It was very cold and overcast, which made photography difficult, but it was very interesting to see it.

Further on down the road, we took a right turn and just before a sharp left turn, I told David to stop the car. I had caught a glimpse of what looked to be petroglyphs on some stones a few feet back. We parked and got out, and everyone looked and wondered how old they were.

There were three visible horsemen with pointed hats/helmets and flowing capes. There were also clearly visible reins on the horses. – quite interesting.

^ Ancient (or really old) Chalk Drawings along the R480 ^

The R480 joined the R476 road a few kilometers south, where we headed west towards Kilfenora.

On the way to Kilfenora, we saw an old castle tower rise up out of the grey…we pulled into the driveway (the postman had just finished his deliveries) and walked around for a few minutes.

When those few minutes had passed, we piled back into Ol’ Blue and headed out…or not. The gate had automatically closed behind us, and there was no other way out.

We were stuck for several minutes when a local farmer drove by and said, “Stuck are ya?”

Me: “We are at that. Do you think you could help us?”

Farmer: “It’ll cost you money.”

He then proceeded to type in the magic keycode on the opener (2-8-8-2) and open sesame…we were free!. I handed him all the change I had in my pocket – €2 – and said, “It might not get you the whole pint, but it’ll take you most of the way.”

“That’ll do.” Was his only response, and he was off on his way…as were we.

The only thing worth mentioning in Kelfenora is Vaughan’s Pub. Great roast pork and hot tea, and the guy working the place was very entertaining. He asked where we were from and what we were doing in the middle of Ireland…we told him why we were there, and when we told him we were from Central Illinois south of Chicago, he asked what it’s like.

Me: “If you stand on a curb, you can see 30 miles”

Him: “Jeezus, it’s that fucking flat?”

All of us (in unison and sadly): “Yes, it is.”

He recommended O’Connor’s pub in Doolin when we got there, and he also mentioned that the weather we were having in November was clearer than most days in June…so we were very lucky indeed.

We followed the R481 road (still the same road, but now with a different number) towards Ennistimon and drove into Lehinch on the N85/N67 road. From there we took the R478 north along the coast towards the Cliffs of Moher and Doolin.

The Cliffs of Moher are naturally formed and stand 200+ meters high over the edge of the Atlantic Ocean. There’s a nice warm visitor’s center (thank goodness) and you only have to pay €4 for parking. There are steps up to the right (paved, marked, safe) to O’Brien’s tower…Laura and I went to the left.

^ The Cliffs of Moher with O'Brien's Tower on the edge ^

We had a good hike in breezy conditions out muddy trails and had a grand time. We really needed the hour or so we got so that we could be alone and enjoy something just between the two of us. Besides, the one thing you can't see from O'Brien's Tower is O'Brien's Tower.

Dave was a little upset with us for skipping off like that, but he eventually forgave us…I think.

We finished up at the Cliffs and headed to the Doonagore B&B – right on the coast. Laura and I finally got a room with a pleasant view and took a few moments to clean up. Our hosts gave another recommendation for O’Connor’s and so we headed back to the nearest ATM (15km away in Lehinch) where we also found Kinder Eggs (the Germans call them Kinder Uberasschung Eier - Children's Surprise Eggs), then to O’Connor’s for some food.

O’Connor’s had the best fish and chips I’ve ever eaten in my life. It was good, hot and there was lots of it. Also, because O’Connor’s didn’t have my preferred Smithwick’s (pronounced Smithick’s) Ale, I had to settle on the best Guinness of my life.

Later in the evening, there was a session of local musicians playing traditional Irish music – called a ‘Trad Session’. It was very enjoyable and we left there at about 11:15pm.

All in all, a very good day.